Скачать с ютуб Belly Tank Lakester Ep78 | Battery Mount, Alternator-Tacho, Temp Sensors - 3rd Attempt ! в хорошем качестве

Belly Tank Lakester Ep78 | Battery Mount, Alternator-Tacho, Temp Sensors - 3rd Attempt !

Relocating the battery. Mounting tachometer sensor to alternator pulley. Finding temp sensors that actually fit the heads (at last). Battery relocation: After I added the extra J shaped chassis tubes, there was no room any longer for my slimline battery. Therefore I have relocated the battery to a point low down behind the seat and upgraded the battery to an AGM type, designed for modern start/stop engines. More important for me, these are leak proof as the acid is absorbed onto glass fibre matting inside. Tachometer: Tachometer (motor revolutions per minute) sensors tend to involve detecting magnetic pulses somehow with a sensor mounted very close the the crank pulley. In my car this means removing the rear under tray, which also means removing the exhausts each time. I had a sudden brainwave one night; The alternator pulley is at the top of the engine and much easier to get to and also made of alloy, therefore why not glue a magnet into a hole drilled into the side of it and then mount the sensor nearby? Problem with this is that the alternator pulley rotates faster than the crank pulley, but not that much faster. I worked out a way to measure this difference and correct for it so it displays the correct RPM on the gauge. Temperature sensors yet again: I first tried 1/8NPT thread sensors and they were way too small for the threaded holes in the heads near to the water outlets. I then found on forums that the threads should be 1/4 NPT, ordered those, calibrated them with boiling water in a kettle and so on, only to find they didn't fit my heads either ! My car was built in the UK from parts crated from the US pre-war so I wondered if the threads had been drilled and tapped to take a British temp sensor thread type? NPT (American National Pipe Thread) threads are all tapered although there is also a variant ending in -S (straight) denoting straight threads but these seem uncommon. There are some other thread types that are very similar dimensionally so I ordered a single bolt of each type as the cheapest way of finding out which thread type fitted my block by trial and error. In the end I worked out that it is a UNF thread. Next problem was to find out if anyone makes a temperature sensor with that thread type and indeed they do exist. They were used in the Rover 800 and other slightly obscure British cars. Of course after buying these I had to go through my boiling water calibration sequence for a third time but now at last they seem to both work OK and also fit into the heads OK. Got there in the end. I should have started the process by finding out what sensors fitted the heads before getting too fixated on how I was going to get them to work with my temperature gauge. I had just assumed some kind of adapter would be easy to get hold of.