Скачать с ютуб How To Install BMW E30 Drive Shafts, DIY Steering Limiters & 6-Cyl Coding Plug Install | 057 в хорошем качестве

How To Install BMW E30 Drive Shafts, DIY Steering Limiters & 6-Cyl Coding Plug Install | 057

How To Install BMW E30 Drive Shafts, DIY Steering Limiters & 6-Cyl Coding Plug Install | 057 Following on from the MOT prep failure that was the previous video on this BMW E30 build, I took on the task of solving the problems I'd uncovered on its inaugural test drive. Here's what I used in this video: E30 SKF Half Shafts: https://ebay.us/ef3DTr 27mm Inner Diameter Aluminium Tube: https://ebay.us/5sWtMj 6-Cyl Instrument Cluster Coding Plug (7k RPM): https://ebay.us/sIqyey Large Adjustable Spanner: https://ebay.us/PCqp7b Teng Tools Big Torque Wrench: https://ebay.us/BTOxax Good news and bad news. Firstly, the good news is that the clutch no longer seems to slip, which is a huge win considering that was the main heartbreaker last time. It remains a bit of a mystery, but all we did was remove the slave cylinder, look at it, and then put it back. My two current theories on why it slipped on the first drive: 1. The clutch slave cylinder rod was misaligned with the pivoting arm, hence removal and refitting solved it. 2. The clutch disk was somehow contaminated from storage, and it's taken a few miles to burn off and bite again. Also good news was the large jolt through the steering did turn out to be the undertray I'd refitted. As suspected the track rods were catching on it, and it was already starting to self-clearance. I removed it and cut a couple of over-sized semi-circles in it for clearance at any ride-height. This seemed to be a great success. With that good news aired, let's move onto the bad news. Unfortunately, after that initial drive, I got under the car and noticed a continuous streak of black CV axle grease up the length of the grey underside I'd so painstakingly refinished earlier in the series. I cleaned that off immediately as it made me very unhappy to see such a mess. It turned out that the source of this were a couple of pin holes on the differential-side of the half shafts. These shafts are original to the car and I'd only given them a coat of black paint hoping they would last a few more years. Evidently not. I had a look for rebuild kits, and while I am sure they are available, I opted to fully replace both axle shafts with new SKF E30 half shafts. SKF is a well-known bearing brand so I feel confident in their quality, the actual shaft rarely fails on an E30, so it's the bearings that count. With them unboxed I got to fitting them on the car, this proved to be quite fiddly, but actually less difficult than I imagined. I showed how to fit E30 drive shafts in a fair amount of detail in the video as a how-to guide. Another unexpected bit of bad news was that the front tyres were catching on the chassis rails in the wheel wells. I was not expecting this to be honest, but it should be expected as a considerable amount of the front end of the car has changed. We have the front 5-lug swap featuring the SRS Concept front control arm bushings to recentre the wheel in the arch, the steering rack was changed to a Z3 rack. Plus 16" style-5 wheels from an E38, wrapped in 215-section tyres. It contacted quite badly to the point of the inner rim of the wheel actually touching the front ARB when the suspension is at full droop. Guaranteed to be an MOT fail, and even if not, potentially dangerous. To solve this I measured the rack part of the Z3 rack and decided to purchase some 27mm inner-diameter, 4mm wall aluminium tube to create some of my own DIY steering limited, AKA rack limiters. On a car like this you are generally looking to get more lock, more steering angle can help you catch a slide, and on a light RWD car like this, slides aren't uncommon. However, in this case, for safe wheel fitment, we actually need to limit the range of the steering rack. BMW even did this on some M3 models for the same reason. With the aluminum tube, I chopped off an 8.5mm slice for the drivers side, and an 8mm slice for the passenger side which gave me around 1.5cm of clearance preventing the wheel and tyre contacting the chassis. With this unexpected work done, and feeling very satisfied with my new driveshafts, and steering rack limiters, I took the opportunity to swap in the E30 instrument coding plug to correct my RPM gauge now I have swapped the engine from an M40 4-pot to an M52 6-pot. This was quite easy to do, the coding plug lives just beneath the cluster and can be popped out following the removal of the knee roll and a couple of trim pieces. The work culminated in a much more successful test drive! For more helpful how-to guides and restorations: https://www.spannerrash.com/ As an Amazon Associate, Ebay Partner and Awin Affiliate, we earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Some of our links are affiliate links, and if you decide to purchase things through them, we earn a small commission. It costs you nothing but helps us to keep the content coming. Thanks for your support! #bmwe30 #e30build #m52 #m52b28 #m52e30 #m50 #e30 #e30m52 #e30m50