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Even some of my most diehard motorhead friends can't tell a forged crankshaft from a cast. I recently had a customer want to order a new torque converter for his Mopar 440 and evidently it takes a different converter depending on if the crank is cast or forged. The converter difference was new information for me, but I am quite familiar with the crankshaft identification. For those that know me, I couldn't give a rat's buttocks about matching numbers, but I do care about knowing what is bigger, better, faster, or stronger, when I build something. If a set of cylinder heads flow exactly the same but one is a super rare casting, I will buy the cheaper ones all day long. Leave the rare stuff to the purists. I respect the 100-point restorations but that is not for me. I like Hot Rods. Nonetheless, I do prefer a forged crankshaft for 4-speed or high horsepower applications and knowing what to buy at a swap meet can save me money. It cost around 100-bucks to turn a crank while a new Forged crank can run over $1000.00 especially for Mopar guys/gals. Hopefully this video will help you too. Just as an FYI, a knit line is where the two sides of a mold come together. Why the forged crank has a fat one I do not really know, it just does.