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Π‘ΠΊΠ°Ρ‡Π°Ρ‚ΡŒ с ΡŽΡ‚ΡƒΠ± Simple Diy Spring Making Jig /Machine (for those of us without a machinist lathe). Π² Ρ…ΠΎΡ€ΠΎΡˆΠ΅ΠΌ качСствС

Simple Diy Spring Making Jig /Machine (for those of us without a machinist lathe). 4 Π³ΠΎΠ΄Π° Π½Π°Π·Π°Π΄


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Simple Diy Spring Making Jig /Machine (for those of us without a machinist lathe).

so this is a pretty simple jig, if you dont have a machinist lathe. but this whole spring making process can be pretty dangerous. I used .035 music wire which is pretty stiff stuff. and I stabbed myself in the leg right in a vein when unfurling it haphazardly. blood shot out like a foot it was pretty awesome. so CAUTION; you need to have some mechanical aptitude and awareness of material properties to do this. you will need to decide for yourself if this is something that is within your skillset. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT SAFETY GOGGLES, TO MANY THINGS CAN GO HORRIBLY WRONG. ALSO, WEAR YOUR LONG PANTS. AND WEAR LEATHER GLOVES. wearing pants was a free pro tip. ***note on the music wire, it is super springy. it is pratically alive and can bite you. also, it does not require heat treatment or tempering. once it is spun it is ready. It is already at hardened temper and additionally work-hardened when spun. because science. so, I got annoyed with my local hardware store, first they don't have what I need, and if they do --not in the quantity I need. but more importantly they wanted to start charging me restocking fees because they claim I return too much stuff--well because margins. I explained that I am, an inventor sort, and do not work off of blueprints. I cannot know how 'd' gets to 'e' if I don't yet know how 'b' gets to 'c'. and a lot of that is dependent on available materials. it is my process, a lot of times what is available on hand at the moment of the build is what determines how a piece gets fabricated. if you make shit you know what I mean. this jig is a case in point. all materials I had laying around. and it needed to be made quick and easy. I needed 60 springs, ~1.25" long 3/16-1/4" diameter with a bit of heft. I needed to do it all fast. so... I used a 2x6 as a base. a t-slot I had laying around. I took the chuck assembly [chuck/ bearing/ and gear box housing-minus gears] off an old obsolete drill and fastened it to 2x6 parallel to the base opposite a variable speed drill plugged into a foot switch (foot down=on, foot up=off), foot switch was a key upgrade from what i made before. i made a speed controller out of a bolt and nut and scrap of metal, which pressed against the trigger and was fixed-adjustable. I used a piece of clear acrylic to keep back-force against the mandrel which was a 36" length of 1/8" drill rod. and ran the wire thru a hole in the acrylic block, tried some wood scrap but decided i wanted to see the wire lay down to catch an overlapping course. i think a block is good for multiple reasons and maybe an eye hook would work if you dont have acrylic. i wanted to make a very long spring that i could then cut to length instead of spinning one spring at a time. using an 1/8" mandrel 36" long and pulling 0.035 music wire under tension meant it needed the support. if youre making flimsy soft little baby springs you could do this without the block. i needed a ~3/16 diameter with about 15-20lbs of tension per inch. i made extension springs here and pretty much exactly the spec. i needed. a compression spring would require a spacing mechanism to keep consistent spacing, or simply eyeball it. clamping a shim/popsicle stick to the back of the block would suffice. so on my particular jig, clamp a stick roughly equivalent thickness to the guage of the wire (metal would be better but hard wood popsicle stick will work in a pinch) to the right of the thru hole on the block the width of space-between-rings perpindicular to the length of travel, i.e. 90Β°to the base/mandrel. so if i wanted a compression spring that had 5/32" spacing between rings i would clamp a 5/32" stick to the block. run your first ring and seat the stick on the mandrel(rod) and then the stick will sit in that slot the length of your spring, as you run the drill and press against the mandrel the stick will auotmatically create the space. i made some of these years ago on a drill press jig, (vari speed drill in a drill press holder contraption) but this jig would be better as it has control on both ends (especially for skinny springs). the issue with the drill press was it was ackward, didnt have aux support for mandrel end, so smaller than 1/4 rod didnt fare well. this jig solves that problem. if you needed springs in a much higher gauge i would not recommend this sort of setup. you would need the girthy stoutness of a lathe that weighs tons. but for simple one offs for silly jigs and things, this setup saved me a ton of money. (I actually made a longer description but it got lost on the upload. so this is it.) If you have questions ask, I check a couple times a month for messages. there are a lot of ways to skin a cat, so this can be a jumping point for you. it was super easy. and worked great. I find I spend most my time making the thing to make the thing which in turn actually makes the thing I am trying to make. oh and screw you hardware store owner lady. yes you Karen.

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