Скачать с ютуб Connie-fying my Jersey ax pattern to excel in hardwood felling, bucking, even splitting в хорошем качестве

Connie-fying my Jersey ax pattern to excel in hardwood felling, bucking, even splitting

Okay. My last video was a fact-check tragedy. But good! We only have to be wrong once, and I got that out of the way on just about every major point. I FINALLY got my question answered, both authoritatively from online resources and then through personal experience. What are tall, thin ax patterns for? Well, anything you want, really. But several were specifically designed for hardwoods: The Connecticut and the Jersey in particular. Knew they were great trimmers. Stunned me during my "oak video fail" just how much better than my cheeky vintage Michigans they can be in big hardwoods, slicing into dry oak and ash -- and that stringy oak-ash-maple "Frankenstein" I haven't confidently ID'd yet from my flop video. One thing, though -- my Jersey, once again, let me down. What's up with that? Q: How could a 4 7/8" thin bit (Jersey) come up so short in performance against a 5"+ plus thin bit pattern? It's just 3/8" or so shorter. How? HOW? @ Hugely different grinds. Different bevel angles. The Connies both had about 18 deg. flat grinds with microbevels and slightest of cheek rise. My Jerseys I haven't used much. I left them close to the way I ground them back when I first got them. They're 23 deg. convex ground bits. Pretty prominent convex, too. I was new to long axes. Followed that US Forest Service recommendation. I wanted to protect my brand new ax's edge, you know. Not only didn't the convex protect the edge all that much (nicked it right away, and that was still in there, too), but turns out that one variable made a huge difference in performance. See it for yourself in this short video. (Pardon my head cold. Sorry, all who might be sensitive to sniffling noises). Bottom line is, I learned I do not need a cheeky ax for dry hardwoods. I don't want it, now. I'll save my cheeky Michigan and vintage, Yankee-ish Dayton patterns for green wood as well as Rod's saturated pines, whose bendy, flexible fibers reject a thinner bit, need a little extra persuasion to bust out of their comfy situation. Make sense? Many hardwood species (not all), especially when dry, let a thin bit go deeper without sticking and readily crack and chip away. They give your ax back to you after a hit, which is what inspired William Kelly to create the Perfect ax with phantom bevels. Meant for working in greener, softer woods. In harder woods, that cheek rise is a hindrance, not a help. You see in this video, same log, same ax. Big difference in bucking reducing a 23 deg. convex grind on the Jersey to match the 18 deg. flat grind with protective microbevel of the Connecticuts. Now we're buckin'!!! (In ash, or whatever the heck this wayward log was.... It ain't oak. And in oak? Be afraid, Mr. Oak -- My Jersey's coming for ya! (I mean, in a few weeks, maybe -- I broke a bone in my foot. Can't load logs for a while).