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Making of Kota Doria Saree

Handloom Kota Doria is one of the finest open weave fabrics of India.Kota Doria fabric is formed by combining cotton and silk yarn in a fine check pattern known as 'khats'. Cotton provides strength and durability and silk ensures its softness and delicate feminine quality. Initially these cotton yarns are bought in the form of hanks known as lachhis . These yarns are then transferred from hanks into spools, which is known as pirn winding. Warping is done to determine the number of threads of the yarn to be used in the warp during the process of weaving across the width of the saree. Dyeing The process of dyeing involves the washing of hanks / warp in a warm surf solution to make it softer. Then dipping them in a boiled solution of dye of the desired colour. Finally washing in a dye fixer before final drying, to strengthen the dying process. Sizing Sizing gives the yarn strength, surface glaze and stiffness. It is done by applying a thin paste of rice known as maandi on the yarn stretched along a stand. Traditionally a paste made from wild white onions was used. Special brushes are used in the activity of sizing which used to come from Kashmir. Preparation of the Loom Drafting The process of passing the warp yarn through the healed of a loom as per the design to be woven is known as drafting. Denting The reed, a comb like structure locally known as 'raanch' is filled with yarns by skilled craftsman. Reed is made of a special variety of bamboo found only near Banaras. Piecing The process of joining warp yarn with the help of thumb and index finger using some ash in the process is known as Piecing. Designing The design to be woven is first designed on the graph paper and then transferred onto a ‘Jala’. Weaving is done in pit looms using throw shuttle techniques.