Скачать с ютуб 2006 Honda Pilot All Keys Lost - pick, decode, cut and program в хорошем качестве

2006 Honda Pilot All Keys Lost - pick, decode, cut and program

00:00 intro 03:30 lishi hon66 the door 07:23 reading the bitting 10:30 instacode software to confirm bitting 12:25 complete bitting and cut code obtained 12:40 cutting key with xhorse dolphin 13:23 testing freshly cut key in the vehicle 14:15 confirming we have the correct cut code by removing the glovebox latch 15:30 removing the column covers to gain access to lock cylinder 19:00 removing the lock cylinder from the housing 21:30 disassemble the lock cylinder 24:45 removing the old wafers from the lock cylinder 27:45 Found the issue 29:00 replacing all the worn wafers 32:20 reinstalling the lock cylinder and column covers 33:40 programming a new xhorse flip key 36:25 using the Autel im508 to program the keys to the immobilizer system 41:00 programming the remotes to the vehicle Come along for the humbling experience as I learn how to do an all keys lost Honda Pilot. I didn't have cell phone service or internet available so I decided to lishi the door first using the HON66 lishi. I want to be able to open and decode these locks quickly so it was a great learning experience. Once I picked the door and read the bitting we punched the numbers into instacode to find out if the bitting is valid and fill in any blanks spaces. I found out that the lishi only picks 1-5 position because the 6th position on A and B is always a 1. I made a few errors in the decoding but by eliminating a few positions instacode was able to determine the correct cut for us. The key code ended up being a 0K365 according to instacode. My Xhorse key tool max was unable to cut by code without internet so I am glad the instacode software was able to do it. After decoding the lock I cut a key blank using the Xhorse dolphin and the keytool max by entering the bitting manually. The key worked perfect in the door and glovebox but failed to operate the ignition. By this time it was getting late and I didn't have the tools required to take apart the ignition switch. I returned the next night to complete the job. This wasn't an issue for the customer since he has several vehicles and rarely leaves his mountain cabin. Returning the next night with proper tools in hand I removed the lock cylinder from the ignition fully expecting the ignition to be a replacement unit with a different cut code. My plan was to match the cut code of the door. I don't have the special tool to remove the lock cylinder roll pin so I drilled a small hole near the roll pin and used a pick to pry it out of the housing. With the lock cylinder out I notice the lock cylinder cut code matched the cut coded on the glove box and what we decoded from using the lishi on the door. That means we are probably dealing with a worn ignition and not a different cut code. I disassembled the lock cylinder and found the wafers worn out and one wafer was binding. I replaced all wafers with the ASP pinning kit and reassembled. Everything was working great so I reinstalled the cylinder into the housing and reinstalled the column covers. With a functioning key and lock cylinder I began the programming process only to find out the Honda remote head key I cut was the incorrect key( there goes $20) so I cut another xhorse blade and programmed another remote. The immobilizer programming work great using the Autel im508. I programmed the keyless entry remotes manually and called the job done.