Скачать с ютуб Toyota pickup/4runner 3VZE overcooling/bad gas mileage/bad overdrive. fixed!!!!!! (read description) в хорошем качестве

Toyota pickup/4runner 3VZE overcooling/bad gas mileage/bad overdrive. fixed!!!!!! (read description)

I was having issues with my 1989 Toyota Pickup with a V6 3vze motor but this has been an issue so far as i can see in all of the 1989-1995 pickups and Four Runners ( I actually know a couple people who sold their trucks because they couldn't figure it out, CA smog laws are no joke) The following symptoms were present in my truck; -extremely long warm up times(according to gauge) when 50F outside it'd take 30-45 mins. to get to operating temp (gauge) at idle. and once I would start to move the temp would go down just enough to kick me out of overdrive. heat worked almost immediately and would stay warm even when gauge temp was falling, and thermostat, fan and hoses all seemed to operate as normal and heating up. -Intermittent loss of overdrive gear while traveling on the freeway (even at operating temp) -If I would try to use my passing gear or downshift ie. high RPMS my temp gauge would immediately start to drop. -poor gas mileage -Weird idle -Fail smog due to rich condition - noticeable difference in power Tests to be done for cooling issues: - 170+- 3psi psi compression in all cylinders - Coolant pressure test passed - Temp gauges and sensors, cold start injector, TPS, VAFM, Dash pots, Idle air control and throttle all tested out within spec Things that I tried to fix it, after consulting everything!!!! ie: internet, forums, 35yr master mechanic, the stealership, my lucky stars, my neighbor who knows "lots about dem yoters" and my common sense. 1. 3 new Toyota thermostats (including one aftermarket 195) with flushes of entire system each time. 2. New O2 sensor 3. New radiator 4. Covering part of the radiator with cardboard 5. Change fan clutch 6. TPS adjustment and replacement 7. Clean the throttle body including the Idle air control bypass and cold air bypass 8. Change out temp sensor (gauge) and ECT temp sensor. 9. After getting fed up I decided to do a flush of all accessible cooling ports. EUREKA!!!!!!! The sensor rail was the last thing that was on my list to clean out because it was nowhere in the FSM, any manuals, forums, google searches or anything and of course its also a b*tch to get to .. but one look at the outlet hose and I was done. Things needed: 12mm short socket 1 long extension long needle nose pliers coolant (to replace what comes out) air compressor I used guitar strings but something to poke in that small hole New gasket for sensor rail (part stores all carry them) Process: It is easiest to first take your hood off for this project just because you will be needing to look directly down behind your intake plenum. Next from above your motor you will want to look directly behind your intake plenum and find the Sensor Rail. depending on the rail that you have your bypass passage will be a large hose in the middle or like mine a small U shaped hose on the passenger side. you will use your long needle nose pliers here and some finessing to get your old U hose or bypass hose off. once it is off it may not be apparently clogged but if your system is still pressurized some coolant should leak out of both the U and from the bypass inlet once the U is removed. If not. Time to take off the rail. The sensor rail will come off after removing all of the electrical connectors. I found that removing the Heater core hoses first made this job much easier. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE SENSORS!!!! they are made of plastic and are prone to break when manhandled and are often brittle from age and heat(ask me how i know). I found the needle nose pliers useful here as well. Next, just remove both of the 12mm bolts on the rail and while again being very careful of the sensors pull off the rail. (i found the passenger side had a little more access to get to it) Once you have the rail off the rest is up to you. I chose to fill the bottom up with water to confirm the blockage but I'm sure it would have shown with compressed air as well. But hey you do whatever works for you. once it is cleaned out and you have confirmed that you have complete flow. installation is the reverse of removal only with a NEW gasket. do not forget to re-attach all vacuum and coolant hoses and heck while your at it clean up in there! confirm your suspicions by starting her up and watch that temp gauge move like new!! Hope this helps!! -Chris Specifics on my truck: 1989 Toyota pickup V6 3vze A/T 4x4 212k miles