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Emporio Armani FW 23-24 Men's Show: The View From Above

Soaring through the air to look down on the world from a new perspective is a deeply human desire. And flight, represented by the eagle, is part of the Emporio Armani spirit: a sense of adventure and a boundless taste for exploration. This collection is a tribute to the 1930s aviator and his world, to the sophisticated severity and adventurous precision of his style, to the metallic glints of the planes and hangars. The idea of a human in flight reinvents a figure that has always been central to the Armani imagination, dressing him in sport-inspired clothes made from soft, high-impact materials, with enveloping volumes and designs that expand and dilate the classic Prince of Wales and Houndstooth checks. Silhouettes are varied: coats, trench coats, double-breasted pea coats and blousons are worn with cropped trousers, complete with boots and lace-ups that boast thick soles to mark every step. The rhythm of the patterns expands into everything else: even oversized T-shirts are made in the same wool as coats and trousers. Leather and knit are essential elements that add grit and comfort: vintage-style bomber jackets, long tricot coats, and cardigans with matching gilets to create new twin sets. The evening is no less sophisticated and the Emporio aviator explores the pleasure of velvet and the sparkle of crystals, indulging in the languor of silk blouses with long scarf collars with no disdain for the rigour of double-breasted jackets. The chromatic panorama moves from greige and beige to caramel and rust tones before lighting up with flashes of colour, from intense red to geranium, with pink and purple notes, before settling down in black. Long gloves, beanies, and duffle and drawstrings bags accompany the flight.