Скачать с ютуб Google Pixel 6a vs Nikon D610 v0, 240808 в хорошем качестве

Google Pixel 6a vs Nikon D610 v0, 240808

This is a continuation into comparing the 6a's "relative performance" to a generic Nikon DSLR in terms of in-camera HDR blending, color and image-resolution, except this is compared to the D610 where my previous comparison was to a D850. The D610 and D850 both support in-camera HDR stacking and blending, with some significant differences. The D610 only supports RAW and JPEG, it only supports the multi-point active metering from the D300/s, and it has a fully mechanical shutter system. The D850 shares the electronic shutter from the D750 and also supports TIFF as well as JPEG output for HDR stacking & blending, but it uses the single-pont AF system from the D750 (or vice-versa). Note if you have a standalone camera and you can't get one of the menus for the advanced functions to even light up, it's probably due to having selected RAW as the output format. If you set the 6a to raw output it will produce a DNG and a matching JPG as pairs. At least with my Nikons I can either have the camera save the source files for the HDR stack and then blend them on my computer OR blend the source image-data in the camera & have it output the image in a bitmap format that's supported by the camera without saving the source image-data files. I don't think there is an option to do both. So of the 4 Nikon DSLRs that I have, the D300s, D610, D750 and D850 definitely have distinct pluses and minuses. Yet the 6a so far stands supreme in terms of both color "happiness" and effective HDR stacking and blending. I wanted to answer two questions here: first does the D610 fare any better than the D850 does in terms of HDR blending in comparison to the 6a, and second what are the pros and cons of shooting the 6a in its standard "1x" zoom mode (which is 24mm in 35mm effective) and cropping the shots vs shooting in "2x zoom" mode, which is a 2x digital zoom with pixel-binning and obvious loss of resolution. For the HDR blending comparison the 6a was the reference, for the cropping comparison the D610 was the reference. I based everything on the highest-fidelity sources and used minimal image-processing on my computer. The source JPGs from the 6a (both blends done to jpeg) were shown, but the downstream D610 shots were based on RawTherapee conversions to PNG & Gimp USM and cropping except for the "zoomed-in" D610 shot which was also an HDR blend. To eliminate that as a factor for the tightest zoom shown, I cropped the 28mm D610 raw output after sharpenig. Trust me on this, the difference between the D610 raw-output (in PNG out of RT) and the D610 jpegs was negligible, you'd literally have to know what to look for, where to find it & how to even see it. The color difference was far more obvious, not to mention the lack of leveling and the USM, so much so that I didn't even bother to label the images. I start off by showing a set of D610 shots (with the Tamron 28-300 non-VC lens) between 28 & 45mm effective, then I crop a 1x 6a shot to match the FOV. The two cameras are about the same MP overlooking the 16:9 and 4:3 native formats. The three shots at the end of the video are those 3 crops plus the reference D610 28mm shot cropped to match the tightest 6a crop shown. You can tell the difference easily because the D610 has the hated "digital look" and is tilted slightly compared to the 6a shot, which is a consequence of neither an internal level nor in-camera lens and perspective distortion correction. Just a reminder. It's better to practice with test shots before it's too late to even take test shots to practice with and you end-up having to take a whole mess of test shots which takes a lot of time and effort and undoubtedly will piss someone off. Unless you don't really care about pissing someone off. My take-home with this is that it is just very difficult for to look at these "24MP" 6a photos at full-image on a large display & NOT get at least a small headache from noticeable high-frequency blur. There's just something going on at "high frequency" which is not right. Maybe it's the monitor, the wiring, computer, OS, display-driver. I don't know. But that "semi-monotonic" gray low-temp low-saturation, high-contrast, high sharpness 6a look just looks better & more realistic than the high-saturation look that I usually see with my DSLR shots. But the DSLR shots have significantly less "jitter'...not "no jitter", especially when shooting outside at low shutter-speeds on windy days, but they have a higher "linear fidelity". The 6a DNGs are noticeably sharper than the JPGs. Who actually looks at cellphone pics at the full camera resolution? If you want good linear-resolution out of the 6a then you have to shoot "raw". But then you have to fix the color & geometric distortion. Pics from my Nikon DSLRs still need the color & exposure fixed. That's well-developed in sw. But I still have to carry them. If I shoot in HDR mode then I can't shoot raw & they still have to stack & blend properly. Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.