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Rice Buckets are a GREAT Tool for Climbers (Climbing Myth?)

Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta // SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ // MORE INFO // For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/ // PRIVATE PT CONSULTS // Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s... // MEMBERSHIPS // Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:    / @hoopersbeta   // SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) // Hooper's Beta T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta Favorite on-the-go food: https://bit.ly/3InYwtu Resistance bands: https://amzn.to/3mRUwFX Crane scale: https://amzn.to/3wuLDrp Lacrosse/massage ball: https://amzn.to/3hot8OD Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): https://amzn.to/2L5F1xa Adjustable dumbbells (pricey but so useful!): https://amzn.to/38FPG9Q Emile's favorite climbing shoes: https://amzn.to/3hpC1Yq Jason's favorite climbing shoes: https://amzn.to/2WS8QE0 Our favorite chalk: https://amzn.to/3pqTa6T MFD/cupping set: https://amzn.to/3dAT9ZN BOSU Balance Trainer: https://amzn.to/3ttN88F // TIMESTAMPS // 00:00 Rice Bucketz Infomercial 01:00 Context and Questionnaire 02:07 The Research 02:35 For Warming Up and Prehab 04:35 For Rehab 07:07 For Strength Training 08:21 The Final Word // SHOW NOTES // Episode 105 INTRODUCTION Rice bucket exercises are commonly used by athletes and occupational therapists for working the hand, wrist, and forearm tissues, so it seems like a relevant tool for climbers. Despite that, I’ve never personally recommended them to any of my patients. (And no, it’s not just because I don’t like having a big bucket of rice lying around.) But before I explain my reasoning and the pros and cons of rice bucket exercises, I wanted to find out what you all actually think about it. We took a poll and here’s what you said: 12 people use it for warming up 10 people use it for rehab 9 people say it’s a waste of food 7 people think there are better alternative exercises 6 do it just because it feels good 5 say it’s too inconvenient 5 say they had no idea this was a real thing 5 say you can’t progress with it or it’s not specific or objective enough 4 people think it’s good for antagonist training 1 does it purely out of desperation (RIP) And there were of course many other gems sprinkled in the mix. [Amanda Lee: “My mom will kill me.”] With such a wide range of opinions, we clearly need to do some investigating to uncover the truth about these exercises. Also, am I just an ignorant noob who’s been missing out on a great rehab tool this whole time? Maybe, but let’s find out! THE RESEARCH Anyway, as always, we’ll first look at the research for answers. Or at least, we would, if there was any. Unfortunately searches for rice bucket research and the more general “fluidotherapy” leave us empty-handed. While this is not an immediate declaration of failure for me, it is significant, because research is what helps guide our decision-making on this channel. Instead, we’ll have to rely on our knowledge of biomechanics, some expert opinion, and research in other relevant fields to help us make an assessment. Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/r... // DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program. // IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS // Muscles: CFCF, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons Hand: Atlas d'antomie Humaine et de Chirurgie by Jean Marc Bourgery (1797-1849) Los Angeles: Taschen, 2005. Atlas Case QM 25 .B67 2005 Nervous system: ¤~Persian Poet Gal, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons // PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt // FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //   / hoopersbetaofficial   #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist