Скачать с ютуб Stock Traxxas shock vs Traxxas Big Bore shock в хорошем качестве

Stock Traxxas shock vs Traxxas Big Bore shock

Comparing a stock Traxxas shock vs a Traxxas Big Bore shock. The Big Bore shocks ARE an upgrade from the factory shocks, and the fit and finish is top notch....... but lets compare. People have pointed out that I failed to mention the "Titanium" shock shafts that come with the Traxxas "Big Bores". So here it goes.... The gold shock shafts are NOT made out of Titanium. Titanium is a non ferrous metal, so a magnet will not stick to it. Try it yourself and you will see that a magnet does indeed stick to these shafts. The gold color is a Titanium Nitride (TiN) coating just like what is used on TiN coated drill bits. The TiN coating is an improvement to the stock shafts because the Titanium Nitride coating is much harder than the base material and is very corrosion resistant, so it will have less wear and will in turn wear the shock seals/o-rings less as well. But keep in mind that TiN is a very thin coating, and doesn't contribute much to the bending/breaking strength of the shaft. Some say they don't break the TiN coated shafts as often, but is it just a coincidence? The jury is still out on that one. Some will also argue the TiN coating is more slippery than the regular shafts so the shock will have a smother action, but after carpet racing for many years, I have not been able to tell a difference in a car's suspension action, or lap times in a blind test at a race track equipped with a MyLaps track timing system. Not to say the TiN coated shafts aren't better, but it would take a better racer than I am to be able to tell the difference in performance at the track. So, in closing, if you're a serious basher that drives in mud & water frequently, and doesn't clean your truck after, (shame!!! ....shame!!!) then the TiN shafts will be best to keep corrosion to a minimum. P.S. - If you want to keep cheap Chinese shocks from leaking, first check that the shocks are assembled correctly. (Often times the manufacture messes that up) Most shock o-ring assemblies should go in this order (Shock body, O-ring, Teflon/plastic washer, O-ring, Bottom cap). If the order is correct and it still leaks, replace the plastic washer that's in between the O-rings with a thicker one, or add a thin washer to the o-ring stack, or use larger o-rings from another shock rebuild kit. Thank you all for the comments, they are valuable to help me, and everyone else learn more about this awesome hobby. I'd like to thank Adrenaline Hobbies, Roy Utah, for loaning me the Big bore shocks for this test. https://www.adrenalinerchobbies.com/