Скачать с ютуб Hardcore mixed climbing in deep Switzerland в хорошем качестве

Hardcore mixed climbing in deep Switzerland

Steven Fortune, Maximilian Meyer & Jon Murua Voie de Motte & Holy Moly - Gantrisch Date: 25.02.2024 1,800m Pitches: Voie de Motte: M5, M3+, M3, M5 Holy Moly: M6, M6+, Transcript: After a fantastic day on the Nuneneflue North Face on Saturday, Sunday we went for the neighbouring Gantrisch pilar. There are many routes to climb here, but all are pretty harcode. We went for the easiest which is called Holy Moly. A short route on the M6+ level on frozen turf and sketchy limestome. Instead of walking to the base, we decided to warm up, on another route further down called turf way on the M5 level. This routes leads directly to the base of Holy Moly and it makes a nice combination. The first pitch starts with a hard M5 section. And on the first move my axe poped and I found myself upside down. Not only once, but this happened 4 times, always on the same hold. I was obviously quite stuborn with this hold and not very focused. I even had my axe dropped inside the bergchung ! It took us quite some time and effort to dig in the snow to access the insides of the bergchung to recover the axe. The second pitch is quite steep on frozen turf. It can be easily connected with the first pitch to make a full rope-length pitch. The third pitch is again quite steep on frozen turf, and can be easily connected with the 4th pitch, again to make a full rope-length pitch. Like that, we climb the whole route in 2 long pitches. The last and 4th pitch is again on the M5 level. It was a bit treaky to find the holes and it was rather technical. Pretty fun ! Holy Moly is a superb line. It goes through the weakness of the rock, connecting them via frozen turf patches here and there. It is extremely delicate climbing and slightly overhanging. Finding holds and the body balance is not easy and we spend quite a bit of time hanging on the tools trying to figure out the next move. This becomes eventually an endurance problem for the forearms. The route is bolted. But the bolts are pretty far apart, so bringing some friends and nuts is a must in my opinion. After the first pitch we felt satisfied and exhausted. Steven motivated us to keep going, saying that it was easy terrain. And so we kept going thinking that it was easy terrain. The first moves actually felt ok. It looked much more intimidating that what it felt. We thought that after the crack, the pitch was over, but it wasn't the case. The crux was just a bit higher. This section looked pretty wild. I actually wondered why we listened to Steven and kept going. But in retrospective, it was definitely worth it. And the satisfaction for climbing at this level is tremendous. It was a lot of fun climbing this extremely delicate pitch with barely no holds. Have fun in the mountains, and stay safe !