Скачать с ютуб How to Grow Anemones // Soaking, Pre-sprouting, Planting, Harvesting, and Storing Anemone Corms в хорошем качестве

How to Grow Anemones // Soaking, Pre-sprouting, Planting, Harvesting, and Storing Anemone Corms

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to grow anemones in cold climates. Generally, gardeners in zones 7 and warmer can plant anemone corms in the fall. However, gardeners like myself in zones 6 and colder will have the best success rate planting anemones in the late winter or very early spring. Ideally, they should be planted along with your hardy annuals. We’ll begin the growing process by soaking the anemone corms. Start this process approximately 8 weeks before your last expected frost, and plant the pre-sprouted corms into the garden approximately 6 weeks before your last expected frost. Anemone corms are shipped in a dry and dormant state and soaking essentially wakes them up. Fill a bucket or jar with room temperature water and soak the corms for 4 hours. During this time keep the water fresh by changing it every hour. After 4 hours you’ll notice that the corms have expanded slightly. They will still look wrinkly and will not expand as much as ranunculus corms. This is normal. After soaking, you can get a jump start on the season by pre-sprouting the anemone corms inside. Pre-sprouting inside is the equivalent of starting seeds inside vs planting a seed directly in the garden. This step is optional and if you prefer to plant the soaked corms directly into the garden they will still grow and bloom.To pre-sprout anemone corms, fill a watertight flat bottom tray with 2 inches of lightly moistened, high quality potting soil. Then place the soaked corms onto the soil with the pointy side down and cover them with an inch of lightly moistened potting soil. You can place the corms very close together since they’ll only be in this tray for a few weeks. Next, place the tray in a cool, dark area with an ideal temperature of 50° F for 2-3 weeks. An unheated basement or cool closet is an ideal location for pre-sprouting. During this time in darkness keep the soil slightly moist and check the corms often. Immediately discard any that are rotten or moldy. Moldy corms signal an environment. that is too humid or soil that is too wet. However, if corms fail to develop roots after 2-3 weeks, the soil is likely too dry, or the environment is far too hot. After 2-3 weeks in a dark place at 50° F, the corms will have developed roots and small white shoots. This is when they should be planted out into the garden. Anemones grow best in full sun and rich, well-draining soil. They prefer cool nights at 45-55° F, and sunny days at 60-70° F. Prior to planting, incorporate several inches of compost into the soil. Then plant the pre-sprouted corms 2” deep and 6” apart. As the anemones grow keep a close watch on the forecast. If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the planting area with hoops and frost cloth. Then when temperatures rise above freezing, remove the frost cloth so that it doesn’t get too hot under the tunnel. As the plants grow keep the area weed free and water as needed to keep the soil moist. Anemones will begin to flower approximately 12 weeks after planting and will continue to flower until the heat of summer causes them to go dormant. Anemones make wonderful cut flowers and will last 7-10 days in the vase when harvested at the proper stage. For the longest vase life harvest anemone flowers when the top leaf collar is ½ -¾ inch down from the flower head. If harvested when the leaf collar is still touching the flower head, it may never open. However, if the flower is fully open, showing pollen, and the leaf collar is far down on the stem the vase life may only be a few days. The first cuts from anemones are always shorter than later cuts. However, some anemone varieties are naturally short. Therefore, if you plan to sell cut anemone flowers purchase a taller series such as Jerusalem or Galilee. Anemone corms can be left in the ground to perennialize in zones 7 and warmer. Gardeners in zone 6 may have varying degrees of success leaving them in the ground to perennialize. However, it’s safest for gardeners in zone 6 and colder to dig and store the corms until the following year. To do this, allow the plants to die back naturally in the summer. Then remove the dead foliage, dig up the corms, and allow them to dry for 2 days. Store them in mesh bags in a dark, dry, room temperature location over the winter. In the late winter or early spring, you can start the growing process again.