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Color and Weave Effects || Stepped Twill || OriginStudio

COLOUR AND WEAVE EFFECTS Simple weaves such as1/1 plain, 2/2( 2) matt and —2/2 twill may be used in conjunction with two colour warp and weft patterns to produce small geometrical designs in two colours. The particular design which results depends both on the weave and on the arrangement of the two colours in the warp and weft. These patterns are called colour-and-weave effects. They are very frequently used in woolen and worsted fabrics for costumes, sports jackets and ladies' coats. There are two types of colour and weave effects, such as — • Simple colour and weave effects, and • Compound colour and weave effects. Order cf colouring / Arrangement of threads: There are two types of order of colouring, such as — • Simple order of colouring, and e Compound order of colouring. Both simple and compound order of colouring again divided into two types, such as- regular order of colouring and irregular order of colouring. Simple order of colouring: In this order of colouring, only one ratio of colour is used either for warp or weft, such as • Regular order of colouring — 4 dark, 4 light; 3 dark, 3 medium, 3 light etc. same for both warp and weft. • Irregular order of colouring— 2 dark, 1 light; 3 dark, 2 medium, 1 light etc. same for both warp and weft. • By arranging the weft in a different order from the warp, for example — 2 and 2 warping crossed with 1 and 1 wefting Compound order of colouring: In this case more than one ratio of colour is used either for warp or weft, such as - • 2 dark — 2 light and 4 dark — 4 light; 6 dark — 6 light and 3 dark — 3 light etc. same for both warp and weft. • In the combination of compound order of colouring, it also may be regular or irregular order like as simple order of colouring. Order of colouring for warp yarn is called warping and order of colouring for weft yarn is called wefting. A convenient classification of the orders of colouring for the threads is as follows: • Simple warping and simple wefting • Compound warping and simple wefting e Simple warping and compound wefting • Compound warping and compound wefting. Construction principle of colour and weave effect: Order of colouring and weave structure is fixed for a particular pattern. The stages in producing the pattern are illustrated below: • Mark out the repeat size of pattern according to the order of colouring and repeat of the weave; • Fill-up the repeat size by particular weave structure with crosses; • Indicates order of colouring by shade, the shades indicate the dark yarns; • For warp colouring, colour i.e. shade is put only warp-up position of the particular warp yarn and for weft colouring, colour i.e. shade is put only weft-up position of the particular weft yarn; • This final pattern is produced by combining the colour and weave structure. Stepped twill Pattern: A 1:1 order of colouring with a 2 twill weave (for finer effect) or 1:2 order of colouring with a twill weave (for finer effect)or 2:1 order of colouring with a twill -4 weave (for coarser effect) gives a useful effect known as stepped twill. Its development is shown in the following figures. The following right side figure shows a worsted suiting fabric made with this weave and colouring. Fabrics such as this in which the warp and weft are end-and-end and pick-and-pick in contrasting colours require uniform yarns, accurately spaced. Yarn irregularities, or variations in yarn spacing, show up very markedly, Even the highest-quality fabrics of this type tend to exhibit some irregularities.