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Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles Episode 7: Rhodes

Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles June 2024 Episode 7: Rhodes The medieval city walls of Rhodes are an impressive sight, lining the port with parapets and watchtowers. The most dramatic gate along the harborfront is the Sea Gate with it's pair of crenellated towers. Further east is St Mary's Gate where we peak through at the harbor. Opposite it is the ruined 14th c. Church of the Virgin Mary of the Burgh. At the northeast corner of the old town is the Church of Saint Panteleimon, a small Byzantine church that was abandoned after the Muslim conquest when Christians were forced to live outside the city walls. It wasn’t until the 20th c. that it was reinstated as a church. Panteleimon was a Christian healer who was martyred in 305 AD under the Diocletian persecution. We were able to experience part of a Greek Orthodox service while visiting. The Church of Our Lady of the Castle dates to the 11th century. Historic frescoes and icons are on display inside the church, while Byzantine artifacts adorn the courtyard. Nearby are the scant remains of the 3rd c. BC Temple of Aphrodite. The Street of the Knights is lined with the medieval lodgings of crusaders en route to and from the Holy Land. Knightly orders from all over Europe each had their own headquarters here, including France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and England. Carved heraldic reliefs identify each building's owners. Midway down the street is the 14th c. Church of the Holy Trinity identified by the statue of the Virgin Mary on its facade. At the top of the street is the Palace of the Grand Masters, originally built as a Byzantine citadel in the 7th c. and acquired in the early 14th c. by the Knights of Malta as their administrative center and residence for the head of their order. Despite their association with the crusades, their primary mission was to protect Christian pilgrims on their journey to the Holy Land and to provide hospitals for their care, hence their alternate name, the Knights of Saint John Hospitaliers. We enjoyed the fortress' impressive exterior architecture but decided to forego a tour of the interior since we understood that nothing associated with the medieval period remains. Just west of the palace is Saint Anthony’s Gate with the saint occupying a niche above the archway. Stout walls surround the city, in many places constructed as a pair of massive barricades with a moat inbetween which today makes for a pleasant walk. Just outside the walls is Mandraki Harbour and its two-armed causeway extending out into the water. One arm of the causeway is lined with medieval windmills leading to the 15th c. Saint Nikolas Fortress. Just beyond it, where the two arms of the causeway come closest to meeting, is the site of the former Colossus of Rhodes, marked today by two deer statues located where each foot of the giant would have been standing, one at the end of each arm of the causeway.